Winter has arrived in full force here- freezing temps, snowfall, disgusting sidewalks... yes, Russia is truly at its most, well, Russian this time of year.
In keeping with winter traditions, over the last week I saw a series of interesting street-side wintertime adventures. I unfortunately had my camera at the ready only for some of them, but I'll tell the stories anyway.
A week ago we went to a movie with a friend. I didn't realize that during the movie,
Zenit, the city's soccer team, competed for and won the 2007 Russian Championship. We exited the movie and entered a world crawling with drunken, screaming men.
I feared for my life until I saw the police coming down Nevsky Prospect- specifically, large quantities of riot police (called "
OMON") in a TANK. Oh how I rue the lack of a camera. The tank was crawling with large young men of the type who look like they eat nothing but raw meat; it was also displaying a huge Russian flag on its antennae. At this point I stopped fearing the fans and began fearing the police. (After all, their motto is "We know no mercy and do not ask for any.") We hid in a coffee shop until things calmed down. I wonder what conditions would have been had they lost?
Friday we dropped off our car for an oil change. Under the impression that we'd be able to wait for it, we came armed with magazines and soda. Unfortunately, we were told instead that it would be ready some time in the next few days. Even more unfortunate, they had no courtesy shuttle. This meant walking about 15 blocks to the nearest metro station. By "walking" I mean a carefully controlled shuffle across pure ice.
This is what sidewalks here look like in winter. The first two examples are really ideal scenarios compared to average conditions.
Note the cigarette buds...
This is going to be AWESOME come April...
It's tough to tell, but this is pure ice. The footprints are frozen in place from the day before. Most sidewalks, especially in the shade, will maintain this state for the next 4 months.
Last year I made it all winter without falling down, but three of our friends have already kissed pavement this year; I might not make it through the rest of our time here without a crash landing. Wish me luck.
Without a car, we spent our weekend traveling by bus. While waiting for the bus is terribly cold, it does make for great people watching. Even sitting down is a challenge. Our bus stop bench looked as though a serious party had taken place- there were empty gin and tonic cans (yes, that comes pre-mixed in a can here), empty Cheetos bags, cigarette butts, and best of all, right in front of the bench, an impressive collection of frozen loogies.
Across the street, in the park, some locals decided to brighten up the dreary morning with a lovely trash fire.
Who needs snow? Instead, one can have a gentle cascade of bits of smoldering plastic ash and take deep breaths of toxic air while one waits for the bus.
Also while waiting we saw an interesting lesson in dog ownership. A young woman was walking two dogs towards the park when she dropped the leash for one. It took off running. She attached dog no. 1 to a fence post and started a relaxed stroll after dog no. 2, which was making a beeline for who knows what. It was fascinating to watch how NOT in a hurry she was. A good samaritan stepped on the leash as dog no. 2 ran by, and she slowly sashayed over to retrieve it. She started walking back to the park and practically had to drag the dog with her. (I guess it didn't want to go play by the trash fire?) Upon entering the park, where dog no. 1 had waited patiently, dog no. 2 still wanted to be free. So the lady tried a technique that's new to me: she TOOK OFF THE LEASH and ignored it as it bolted away again. It got about a block out before it paused to look behind it and notice that she could care less. It stood there, suspended at the corner, trying to make up its mind... unfortunately the bus came right then, so I have no idea what happened next. Is this a tried-and-true dog owner technique? Tricking them the way parents do with toddlers when they pretend they're leaving so the child will follow?
Anyway, the next item in my interesting weekend was something that I only got the crappiest of pictures of through the window of the bus, but it's just so delightfully bizarre I have to post it anyway. Our favorite blini restaurant,
Chainaya Lozhka, decided to advertise in front of
Gostiny Dvor by having someone dress up as giant blini and then be chased by someone dressed as a giant mouth. This while other employees wandered around handing out coupons. It certainly got MY attention. So much so that I was too awe-struck to remember to take a picture until the bus was moving. But you get the idea.
Last but not least, this has nothing to do with wintertime or the great outdoors, really, but I think my Minnesota friends will appreciate it anyway: it seems the Green Giant has made it to Russia.
Yes, "Zelyony Velikan" has charmed his way into the Russian heart and stomach, although I think it's no mistake that the word "Jolly" was left out. I think it's illegal to be jolly here... at least until winter is over. :)
